Sushi of Gari 46: Masatoshi "Gari" Sugio’s has taken his big dreams to Broadway, or close to Broadway anyway, where the sushi chef extraordinaire has thrown something new into the pre-and post-theater dining scene. The brightly lit subterranean room has a bit of a carry out feel to it, but the operation itself—and most importantly, the hot and cold entrees—add plenty of warmth to the room. Finding a fittingly happy medium between his newish Upper West Side kitchen and decade-old Upper East Side staple, Chef Gari’s whimsical fish work is on full display here as evidenced by culinary surprises like foie grois dumplings and liquid libations highlighted by a house sake, which is daily made using blends of rice wines suited to the evening’s specials. Though not formal per se, this pricey Restaurant Row newcomer isn’t courting the Tony and Tina crowd by any means. |
