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SarahJames: Nothing whimpers “speakeasy!” quite like the brand-spanking-new maize façade of SarahJames, plopped über-conspicuously on a Bed-Stuy street corner. Inside, though, is no less contrived, with walls and shelves festooned with self-conscious décor composed mainly of Depression-era antiques (Most applauded? The old stove/hostess table purchased at another overpriced Bushwick thrift shop). Seemingly to deter both contemporary speakeasy enthusiasts and people who've lived in the neighborhood more than two years, the place has a dress code: no tennies, no caps, no hoodies. So, you best get dolled up before taking that ride on the J train. Odder still, this Prohibition-like pub is beer-and-wine-only for the time being (it's awaiting a full liquor license), so don’t expect a customary cocktail hour before dinner just yet. Instead, pair your overzealous portion of teriyaki pork chops and trimmings with any of your favorite white wines (averaging $10). You know, they had a name for places like this during Prohibition: restaurants. |
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