Long live the small plate and the large appetite. That's clearly the thinking behind this swank bistro that combines the best of the French and Italian flavors of Nice. Executive chef Andy D'Amico (Nice Matin and Marseille) seems to specialize in delivering the culinary best from foreign cities, and visiting his restaurants is much cheaper than airfare to Europe. This one explores the most popular dishes from the days when Italians ruled (literally), and Nice was Nizza. A few wars and demolished empires later, New York gets a restaurant throbbing with the Italian influence that spawned the Nicest city on the Mediterranean. The restaurant's proximity to the theater district is no small advantage to the owners, and you can count on a rush of “theatrical types" showing up. Pay them no mind—the high drama will all be over by curtain time. Just dive into a good dose of dolcetto and try the “terror-stricken beef,” a frighteningly tasty house specialty.
