Brasserie Ruhlmann: Laurent Tourondel’s culinary mastery is on full display at 45 Rockefeller and the scene is fancy with a side of tasty. From its red velvet booths to oak wood trimmings, the dramatic room is old-school art deco, 1920s Paris. But throw in the very well-informed waiters and hosts, a power-player crowd from nearby NBC Studios, and the random mix that is Midtown, and you have a classic New York City restaurant. As with anything in this area, there’s more expense than “edge.” Dimming the lights a bit later at night could make this wheeler-dealer spot a romantic date destination as well. But onto the food: Pretty much everything here works well. French/American standards like duck, lamb, and succulent steaks are rather minimalist, but excellent. The outdoor space is quite charming and though it doesn’t exactly overlook the ice rink, it’s a hop, skip, and pirouette away. There’s no dress code, but visitors ought to err on the side of formal and bring their thickest wallets: $40+ entrees are commonplace. |
