There’s something decadent, even orgiastic, about all the black and dark brown at Bar 44, that you’d think it was decorated by Robert DeNiro. Sprawl out on the bear skin rug and gaze at the fish-tank-style fireplace (or is it a chicken rotisserie minus the birds?). Knock back a few Gold Rail cocktails and you won’t care! The patrons that have to step over you might, but chances are if you’re lying on the floor of a restaurant, you’ve already let the freak flag fly. Despite all this excitement, the real climax is down the runway at Brasserie 44, where the lights get brighter for good reason. Send a sympathy card to Oceana because this spot shrewdly scooped up star chef, Scott Ekstrom and put him in charge of one of the hottest kitchens in town. Ekstrom works magic on seafood, but he’s not exactly clueless in other domains. (He’s worked magic on wizards and warlords as well...sadly it was only online.) Wine geeks will flip over the cellar—it’s got over 3,000 bottles. Get a table before the mobs descend.
