Babbo: If Mario Batali seems bigger than life, Babbo matches the outsized personality of this TV celebrity chef. Drawing from Italian fare from several regions, Mario uses both familiar and assertive ingredients that only he could get Americans to try, from imported San Danielle proscuitto, to cheeses from the Hudson Valley and Italy, to house-cured meats like salami, pancetta, and soppressata, to lamb’s tongue and calf’s brain. Antipasto skips the old standbys and goes with grilled octopus instead. Main courses range from the unique pig foot milanese or tripe, to the more approachable spicy calamari, grilled quail, short ribs with polenta, linguini with clams and pancetta, and goat cheese tortellini. Leave room for gelato, semifreddo, or panna cotta. Also noteworthy is the wine service: instead of by the glass, your choice comes by the small carafe (about a third of a bottle). |
