A neighborhood isn’t really a neighborhood unless it has a convenience store, a post office, a locally famous crazy vagrant, and a place like Amarone. A cozy and mellow Italian restaurant in the middle of 9th Avenue’s global palette, Amarone offers a vast array of pastas, salads, veal chops, and chicken and fish dishes, and an extensive wine list to boot. The spotlight is squarely on the food here, although there is a petite bar next to the entrance with a small cluster of stools and tables. The vino ranges from cheap to workingman’s expensive, with a heavy emphasis on the Amarone wines from Italy’s Veneto region. The place fills up in the evening with a mostly neighborhood crowd who appreciate Amarone’s quiet, unassuming atmosphere and flavors.