Acqua: Everything here is pretty: the servers, the lighting, even the grain of the wood on the backs of the chairs. But there’s not much energy in this place: The music, when it’s audible, is pleasant enough, but too much time is spent drinking or dining amid the tuneless hum of surrounding conversation. The menu, however, which is well-constructed and primarily Italian, offers solid renditions of the classics, and often with an unexpected and welcome twist. The wine selection is solid, too, so not all is lost. And if your parents are in town, visiting from somewhere greener and quieter, this is the perfect place to take them for their first night in the city. Call it Manhattan 101: A Not-So-Overwhelming Introduction. They’ll love it and you’ll score a solid A-. |
