The cloudy green bandwagon has arrived, and there’s a reason why everyone from Marilyn Manson to Sasha Petraske is jumping on it—absinthe is actually quite good. If you like your drink strong (we’re talking 120 to 140 proof), herbaceous, and packed with an anise flavor, you’ll enjoy a visit with the Green Fairy. With all of the myth and mystery surrounding the wormwood spirit—only legal since last year, when the U.S. government finally lifted its 1912 ban—there’s a lot of misinformation out there. (Don't worry: absinthe won't make you cut off your ear or anything.) We caught up with Oscar Dodd, brand ambassador for La Fée Absinthe Parisienne, a traditional French absinthe based on a 19th century recipe, to clear the emerald fog.
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What is absinthe, anyway? How would you describe the taste?
It’s a wonderfully versatile spirit of unparalleled character, with complex herbal flavor and delightful consistency. The taste can vary massively depending on how it is served or the cocktail it's used in. In terms of the traditional serve, the initial character on the nose and palate is of green and star anise, which opens up into lemon balm citrus, mint, and then earthy fennel freshness. Wormwood character is present throughout, dancing between bitter and sweet.
Why was it illegal in the U.S. for so long?
Fear of the unknown! Unfortunately, an element of wormwood (thujone) was believed to have hallucinogenic properties. After scientific research proved that thujone is far from hallucinogenic, the ban was lifted.
Please describe the proper way to serve and drink absinthe. Why is it important to have the louche (cloudy) effect?
Absinthe must be diluted in some way—consider it a cordial of sorts—to break down the oils and alcohol, extracting all of the herbs and spices contained within.
The traditional serve:
Slowly pour 4-6 parts ice-water to one part absinthe through a small cube of sugar, using a slotted absinthe spoon (included with each bottle of La Fée) to position the sugar over the glass (a large wine glass is a great substitute for a traditional absinthe glass). The louche effect starts to take place as the water drips into the absinthe. This is a sign that the absinthe has been distilled correctly. Louching is the change in appearance from deep emerald green (for a French absinthe), to an opaque spearmint green. The texture also changes, developing a creamy consistency and weight. Once diluted, simply drop the spoon into the glass, give it a quick stir, and enjoy.
Describe the initial reaction to drinking absinthe—will a green fairy really show up?
Ah yes, the Green Fairy! This again refers to the way a French absinthe louches—as the oils and alcohol are broken down, spearmint flecks (or fairies) dance out into the glass and catch the light. It's rather beautiful. The initial “reaction” (you make it sound like an experiment!) to the traditional serve is one of true refreshment—it’s a real pick-me-up aperitif.
What are the effects of absinthe after a few glasses? What happens if you drink absinthe straight from the bottle?
Far from possessing hallucinogens, absinthe actually clears the head, instilling a clearer state of mind as you imbibe more alcohol—but obviously this depends on the amount you drink. Drinking absinthe straight is one of the silliest things a human being can do—only a mixologist needs to taste it in its neutral state, but that is far removed from swigging the 136-proof spirit! Seriously, you can't really digest that level of alcohol neat—never a good idea.
If you don't like the taste of anise or licorice, what are some cocktails that change the flavor of absinthe?
Cocktails made with La Fée can bring out some really diverse and exciting flavors, from cocoa to green fruits. The La Fée sour (a classic whiskey sour with egg white, sugar, lemon juice, bourbon, and La Fée) has such a wonderful creamy consistency and it also sweetens the absinthe—it’s a great introduction to absinthe if you don't want too much anise. Or take a flute and serve Champagne over a measure of La Fée to create “Death in the Afternoon”—Ernest Hemmingway's favorite way of combining these two French classics. The list is endless, but these two are a great starting point.
When and where did you first try absinthe? What did you think of it?
In the summer of 2003, in Prague halfway through a tour of Europe with my friends, we drank what I can only assume was a modern Czech absinthe in a local bar. It was part of an incredible night! However, it wasn't until I started working for La Fée that I was introduced to traditional absinthe by George Rowley (La Fée’s brand owner), and it blew me away.
What are some of your favorite bars in the city for drinking absinthe?
There are so many amazing places to drink in New York, but Pravda, Bookmarks Lounge at the Library Hotel, PDT, and White Star are the first that spring to mind.
What's the absinthe hangover like? Any suggestions for a cure?
As with any quality spirit, if you can stick to just drinking that, the hangover is never that bad (of course it never works out like that in real life). The great thing about the traditional serve is that you have already diluted the absinthe about five parts to one, bringing the alcohol down to the equivalent of a glass of wine, so you won't get as dehydrated compared to most other spirit-based drinks. My best hangover cure, after years of research, is the “grease and glucose” combo—a bacon sandwich and lemonade; giving you salt, sodium, sugar, fat, and protein. And don't forget a couple of pints of water before bed!
La Fée Absinthe Parisienne is available at fine liquor stores such as Crush, Park Avenue and Ambassador, and online from www.drinkupny.com.
~ Selena Ricks
