Chef Alexandra Guarnaschelli, Executive Chef at Butter
Alcohol and food go together—so why not have the best of both worlds and toss your drink into your dish? Before you throw a martini into an open flame, however, consider which alcohol goes best with what food—beer for batter, wine for marinating and braising. Since our idea of cooking with alcohol is more like drinking while cooking, we got some advice from Chef Alexandra Guarnaschelli, executive chef at Butter and host of a new series on Food Network, The Cooking Loft, premiering Aug. 30.
What are some spirits you like to use in cooking, and what reactions do they offer?
I love to pour a splash of cava, Champagne, or any sparkling wine on top of chilled melon soup. The bubbles and the tartness against the sweetness of the melon makes for a dramatic taste contrast. In addition, the carbonation from the bubbles lightens the texture. I love to finish a French onion soup or New England clam chowder with a splash of dry Marsala. The intensity of this fortified wine really straightens the spine on these types of soups and adds depth to the flavor and acidity. I also love, from my childhood, the combination of Grand Marnier, fresh strawberries, and a sprinkle of sugar.
What kinds of alcohol do you keep stocked at home?
I keep some Maker's Mark, Myer's Dark Rum, and Grand Marnier for cooking purposes and, for pleasure, Ciroc Vodka, Hanger One Vodka, and a couple bottles of good Champagne.
Can you get a "buzz" from eating some alcohol-infused dishes?
When you cook with alcohol, particularly if you braise meats with red wine or add white wine to some steamed clams, most of the alcohol burns off as the food cooks. Ideally, the addition of alcohol when cooking should add depth to the flavor and, in some cases, much-needed acidity to the taste.
What are some restaurants in NYC, other than your own, serving memorable alcohol-infused dishes?
I think my favorite place to enjoy alcohol-infused food has to be Ferrara down in Little Italy. Their Baba au Rhum is out of this world. I also love a cappuccino with Fra Angelico at Saint Ambroeus in the West Village—the best.
What are some of your favorite alcohol-infused dishes?
My mother's chocolate rum candies from childhood (she made them every Christmas), sautéed tangerines with Grand Marnier and vanilla ice cream, and New England clam chowder made with freshly opened clams with dry Vermouth added to the foundation of the soup. The taste combinations are dynamite.
Chocolate Rum Balls:
My mother used to make large batches of this at Christmas. She would keep each Christmas cookie tin and they would be scattered in the dining room. I always knew which tin held these, and, periodically, I would sneak a snack while my mother cooked Christmas dinner.
4 oz. semi-sweet chocolate, cut into small pieces
4 oz. bittersweet chocolate, cut into small pieces
1 stick lightly salted butter, cut into small pieces
11/2 to 2 cups powdered sugar (depending on consistency)
2 tbsp. dark rum
Chocolate sprinkles for rolling
1. Combine the two types of chocolate and melt over a double boiler (or in a metal bowl over a pot of simmering water). Whisk in the butter pieces. Whisk in the sugar and the rum. Add only 11/2 cups of the powdered sugar and check the consistency. The mixture should be easy to roll into bite-size pieces. Taste it. You may want to add a touch more rum as well.
2. Put the sprinkles in a bowl. Roll the chocolate mixture into small balls (about 11/2 inches each) and roll them in the sprinkles until each is fully coated. Store them in an airtight container.
